My next undertaking was to install new flooring and have one room as close to complete as possible.
On some days, when the projects seemed like too much and too large to tackle, I picked one room for my end game. I’d look at that one room and know I could accomplish the project in a given amount of time… at least that was my thought process.
So, I wanted to keep this cheap and simple, like most of my projects! Based on all the research I did, installing a floating floor seemed to be the answer to getting this room renovated quickly.
Just that! It is a floor that is “floating,” as in not needing adhesive. So, if I get sick of it down the road or fail—which I don’t foresee happening—it’s easy to remove and start over. Once I knew what I wanted for this flooring, I just needed to figure out how to do it and gather up everything I needed to get started.
The first step was to figure out the square footage of the room. Lucky for me I didn’t have any weird obstacles—it was a perfectly rectangle room!
The packs of flooring will usually tell you how much square footage they cover and their particular instructions for installing the flooring. I went to the typical home improvement store and picked up 8 packs of laminate flooring as well as 2 rolls of moisture guard to lay over the original flooring. According to what I read, that was all I needed!
When you tackle a project like this, reading the instructions is important. The flooring I purchased said to allow it to acclimate to the room that it will be going in for 48 hours and to lay them out and not stack them to allow for this. However, because there wasn’t an extreme difference in the temperature from the store to the house, I cut corners here and only allowed about 24 hours. I only had the weekend to do this and was a little impatient.
While my flooring was acclimating, I was clearing out the room and cleaned up the floor as best as possible. A hand broom and Shop-Vac did the trick.
My next step was rolling out the moisture barrier underlayment. The underlayment had an adhesive strip on it already so there wasn’t any taping to be done to hold them together. This saved both time and money, and who doesn’t love that!
Also, the underlayment was 2mm thick to help with stability and sound dampening, according to the description.
To my relief, after reading the instructions on the box of flooring, it also discouraged the use of laminate flooring tools. YAY (because I didn’t have any)! It also advised against using a tapping block when installing.
Because the room was a simple shape, there wasn’t much to figure out. I laid the floor row by row and left a small gap from the wall to allow for expanding. I never picked up spacers or anything so I just used the scraps I had from the floor I cut.
Once I got close to the end of a row, I marked how much I needed to cut with my jigsaw to finish up the row. Then I trimmed the planks to fit and began the new row with the piece I had cut off. The planks are a standard size so you need to cut them. Cutting also ensures that you don’t have a too uniform-looking floor, which will look unnatural.
Tip: when measuring and cutting, be mindful of which end you are cutting. With the type of laminate I purchased you could only put the next piece of flooring on one way because the two ends where different.
Megan is a recent homebuyer who is sharing her experience with us! Interested in guest blogging with us? Send an email to curbappeal [at] lewith-freeman [dot] com!